From Paris With Love... Interview with AGJC

Appreciators of the smallest and simplest forms, AGJC's design duo Fernanda Lemme and Jérôme Collet wonderful minimalist creations goes back to the very basic, purely concentrating on defined lines and clean shapes with utmost wearability and versatility. The "les géométriques" collection is my absolute favourite with their rustic oxidised originality with a hint of Parisian ideals; the love of  finer things in life.

www.ag-jc.com

1. ​​Tell me the story behind the brand AGJC​ jewelry.

Fernanda: We meet a few years ago in Barcelona. We both come from backgrounds of art and design and we love work with our hands so in the beginning we simply enjoyed creating small objects and spending time together in our atelier space at home sharing our different knowledge as a crafters... and one day we realised that is was not a bad idea trying to turn our passion in a real job and it worked. We are very grateful about this success and we work hard to grow each day.

2. How do you personally define geometry?

For us geometry is at the same time simplicity of shapes and complexity of maths, a beautiful combination of opposites.

3. The jewelry concentrates on lines and shapes, where does the inspiration/ideas come from?

Our sources of inspirations are various as nature, illustration or architecture but always regarding the simplicity and minimalism of shapes. 

Our inspiration comes from various sources, usually from the daily experience.... nature, sometimes as a new flower or discovering a new taste from a recipe or colours and fragrance from markets or travelling and discovering different ways of live.

 

4. ​​Describe the person wearing your jewelry.

The style purified of our jewelry won't pass unobserved for persons who finds elegance in simplicity. Our clients are women who appreciate the contemporary design in simple pieces very comfortable and easy to wear during all day. And one of the curious aspects of our jewelry is that simplicity of shapes makes them also interesting for men who usually by our pieces to offer to her.

5. If you're not making jewelry how do you relax?

We usually enjoy long walks crossing the city or travelling, what we do as much is possible for us, this is a perfect way to relax and discovering new things. We also enjoy visiting markets, cooking and of course eating! We enjoy the simple things in life and we believe that this is actually reflected in many aspects of our work.

6. Describe your creative and technical process.

Inspiration comes and we start drawing or working with paper in 3d to sketch and share our ideas, then we fabricate different models using the traditional jewelry methods and we finally choose some of them. The next work is taking pictures, write descriptions and sharing our work!

7. What is your most memorable moment/achievement during your jewelry designing career?​

The most memorable moments comes always from feedback with customers, we are very attentive and I take extra time to have a good communication with them! and few month ago we worked on a custom order for a boyfriend who send us a sketch rethinking one of our designs. It was an interesting experience and when the ring finally arrives to her girlfriend he wrote a lovely comment for us.

We are very grateful for this sort of words and is a very incentive to still working!

​8. Describe your jewelry in 5 words.

Simple – Minimal – Delicate – Lightweight - Comfortable 

9. Finally, what is your favourite piece? What do you personally wear yourself?

This is one of our last ring that we made and I'm in love with his simplicity, I'm wearing it almost every day!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/192136046/minimalist-quarter-moon-ring-nro-36

The Curve: Karen Hsiang Jewellery Interview

Upon discovering Karen Hsiang's stunning array of elegantly feminine and delicately precious jewellery I immediately knew I wanted to find out more about the person behind the brand. The effortless ability to abundantly layer her jewellery without looking too overdone when in fact, it's still not enough, is the fundamental beauty of the jewellery concept. Her curvature rings are her most defining pieces from the entire collection; inspired by the dancer's lithe body and the sensuous shapes and movements the body creates. Her curve ring and lariat necklace are my absolute personal favourites. Without much further ado Karen let us in behind the making of Karen Hsiang jewellery and her insights of the illustrious world of jewellery.

1. What made you realise you wanted to become a jewellery designer?

I've always had a knack for jewelry ever since I was little. I would play in my grandmother's jewelry box for hours on end. In high school I would make statement necklaces out of mini toys and legos and sketch out pages of jewelry in my free time. I never in my wildest dreams thought I could be a jewelry designer! It was always something I thought was unattainable, so even now I'm pinching myself all the time! 

2. How did you start off in the jewellery industry? 

I kind of fell into it actually. My job at the time was not fulfilling me creatively so I started an e-commerce website that sold and handmade jewelry on the side. It was doing well, but I wanted a space that I could interact with customers on a personal basis. A year later I opened an actual brick and mortar shop and the rest is history! 

3. Congratulations on setting up The Shangri-la boutique in Los Angeles, it is quite unique! Tell us a little about it. 

Thank you! It's been the most amazing experience! I opened the space so customers can try on jewelry and feel the tangible product and see the actual fit and drape on the body. I love the personal aspect of an actual store. The best part is seeing all the amazing jewelry my customers come in with! The boutique is nestled in a quaint airstream trailer, and I've been in that location for two years. I'm moving locations in a few months into a bigger space so I'm very excited about what's to come! The jewelry I curate are pieces that are handmade by local and international artisans and are pieces that can fit into your already existing plethora of jewels, or great starter pieces for women who want to start a great collection. 

4. You also represent fellow independent jewellery designers by stocking their pieces in your boutique. How important is it to support fellow independents alike?

I think independent designers are the most creative and the most passionate about that they do. The blood, sweat, and tears us small designers go through need spaces like my boutique to showcase their amazing creations. It's hard to get your foot in the door in the beginning stages, and I love helping designers get their names out there. 

5. You've created a signature piece with curvatures in your collections, what inspired you this idea?

A long long time ago, in a land far away, I was a dancer. Dance has always inspired me in all my creative outlets and I think the body is such a powerful vessel for movement. The curvatures of the body and the sensual shapes the body can create is a big inspiration for my line. 

6. How would you describe your customer base?

My customer is a woman who loves well made and contemporary jewelry. She loves unconventional but timeless pieces that will carry with her for generations. 

7. Do you have a favourite piece from your collection? What do you always wear?

My Curve ring in 14kt gold has not left my hand since it was made! It sits perfectly in the crevice and curve of my hand, and it stacks amazingly with other pieces I have in the collection and other designers as well. 

8. What are your future aspirations?

I would love to be designing jewelry for the rest of my time here on earth. Even though it's amazing to see your jewelry in magazines and in print, the best feeling in the world is seeing your creations on a customer walking down the street. My goal is to see many women in day to day situations wearing Karen Hsiang Jewelry.

 9. What advise could you provide for budding jewellery designers trying to set up their own brand?

I think the best advice someone told me was to stay grounded and keep trying. It's hard to break through the walls of the jewelry industry, but it takes time and effort on your part. Don't give up! 

10. Three words to describe your jewellery.

Personal contemporary alchemy. 

Images: www.karenhsiang.com

Q&A with Heart & Noble's Cristina Gabriele

2013 has certainly been a breakthrough year for Heart & Noble's founder and designer Cristina Gabriele. Launched in the summer of 2012, she joined Wolf and Badger, a revolutionary concept store that provides a retail platform for emerging independent designers in store and online. In addition to this exciting development Cristina has moved to New York to develop the brand to the US market; a rather hectic yet exciting times ahead. Her unique Cable Tie collection is inspired by her love for industrial designs and everyday objects, turning them into a stunning array of wearable yet luxurious uni-sex jewellery collection. I caught up with Cristina as she took some time out from her busy schedule to discuss the ethos of her brand and the art of setting up a jewellery business.

1.) How did you come up with the name Heart & Noble? What is the concept and inspiration behind it?

The name evolved one creative evening in Dalston, largely thanks to a conversation I had with my dear friend Gerry Duffy. I felt the epithet Heart & Noble embodied everything I would want to represent as a brand; warmth and virtue, passion and honour. It reveals the soul and ethos of the label while alluding to our methodology and conduct. We strive to live by our motto: We will have heart, we will be noble.

2.) Tell me a little bit about yourself. What were you doing before setting up your own jewellery company?

I’m quite a creative, expressive person but I also very much enjoy the practicality of business. While its enormously satisfying to design and produce something of value and beauty, its equally fulfilling to sell it, perhaps even more so. Artists & designers are looking to communicate, to make an impact, and when others recognise and identify with the values you are creating, its enormously inspiring and validating. Before Heart & Noble I had the good fortune of running the production department for a very talented British jeweller. The experience was enormously valuable, and I am hugely grateful for having had the opportunity.

3.) Wolf and Badger is your first stockist. What is the process of finding the right retailer to represent your brand?

We’ve been very fortunate, Wolf & Badger are truly incredible and provide a really brilliant platform for emerging designers.

Finding the right retailer can be quite a process, but if you have a unique product, a viable business plan and a strong sense of your brand’s identity, you will fit the right fit. Look for exciting prospects, and be open to collaboration, you learn so much through experimentation.

4.) You are in the process of setting up Heart & Noble in NYC, what are the steps you have to take to ensure the move is successful?

Immersion! A new city requires new head space. I can’t assume that what has worked in London will work in New York! While I don’t intend on losing any of our brand identity, I feel the success of Heart & Noble will rely heavily on how we position ourselves in the US market. 

5.) What are the most and the least enjoyable aspects of setting up your own business?

At the start up phase its likely that you will be involved in orchestrating or managing every aspect of your venture; from designing your business model to creating the final product. While its enormously satisfying to ideate and create something from the bottom up, its a huge undertaking. The best and worst parts of running your own label: you are responsible for everything.

6.) The jewellery industry is highly competitive and continually pushing for new ideas. What makes Heart & Noble stand out from others? What makes your company unique?

Heart & Noble has a unique objective: to design conceptual, commercial jewellery of superb quality. I’m very interested in the notion of sustaining history while injecting modernism into my creations. Heart & Noble stands out as a sophisticated, innovative brand that combines elegance with a cutting edge aesthetic while never compromising on craftsmanship.

7.) Provide a little insight in your creative and technical process. 

Creativity is an exploration that requires practise and patience. Its about submersion and then giving yourself space to digest. Brian Eno articulates the creative process quite succinctly: “It quite frequently happens that you’re just treading water for quite a long time. Nothing really dramatic seems to be happening, and then suddenly everything seems to lock together in a different way. It’s like a crystallisation point where you can’t detect any single element having changed.” Technically, a designer experiments and iterates, you have to prepare for a lot of trial and error; it’s a matter of constantly crunching and refining until you know you’ve struck gold. 

8.) What is your favourite piece from your collection?

I’m really enjoying my menswear at the moment, there is something extraordinarily satisfying about putting on a pair of cuff links. 
But I do savour the evenings that call for something a bit more substantial, Cable Tie Unit 1, my largest gold necklace feels pretty extraordinary, I relish wearing it.

 9.) What are the biggest obstacles to overcome?

I don’t think there’s necessarily a “biggest” obstacle, or at least I haven’t experienced it yet. As an entrepreneur, being faced with obstacles is constant. I think you just get better and better at firefighting. As long as you are able to stop, assess and pivot, you can survive and blossom.

10.) What one essential piece of advise would you give to aspiring independent jewellery designers?

ONE? Impossible. Be analytical, explore constantly, seek advice, get out of your own head. Passion will fuel you and pioneer your designs, but it can also cloud your judgement. Believe in, and exercise “the reality check.” Be honest with yourself; remain fearless.

Visit her website www.heartandnoble.co.uk  

​ALL JEWELLERY IMAGES BY CRISTINA GABRIELE FOR HEART & NOBLE LTD

Underneath It All Is A Natural Beauty Part II (Q&A With Kerrie Yeung)

 A continuation from an article found here, I am intrigued to find out more about the designer behind the Originals Collection. Kerrie Yeung kindly took time out from her busy schedule to answer quickfire questions.

1. What made you aspire to become a jewellery designer?

During my first year at RISD, I was still trying to figure out which craft I really wanted to get into. When I took an introduction to jewelry class,I knew I found it. I loved using my hands to create very detailed, intricate work. I was also attracted to the sentimentality of jewelry. People give jewelry to commemorate special occasions and milestones, and I wanted to be a part of that in some way.  Most people think of jewelry as just an accessory, but I think jewelry is more than that and can serve as a daily reminder of a wonderful memory.

2.Your Originals Collection is well-loved by those who came across your jewellery. What do you think made you stand out from other jewellery designers?

There’s a lot of work out there right now that subscribe to the idea that bigger or more is better, and there’s definitely a place for that. But I tend to gravitate towards simple and classic shapes, so my work reflects that minimalist sensibility.

3. What was the hardest thing you have to overcome in the industry

Personally, finding your own voice can be difficult. In terms of business aspects, the hurdles will always be getting a firm grasp of the market and knowing how to get your work out there.

4. Jewellery tends to have a variety of audience it caters to. Describe the person wearing one of your jewellery. Who could they be?

I created this collection for the person who really appreciates simple but well-made things. Someone who believes in quality over quantity, and is looking for refined, handmade staples that she can wear everyday.

5.The jewellery industry is progressive and constantly coming up with new ideas and trends. Where do you see yourself in 5 years time?

In 5 year, I see myself still creating and expanding collections that hopefully inspire people. I’d like to see the Originals Collection in 5 years and still find it relevant. I appreciate new ideas and love innovation, but I’m also a bit traditional, so I want to create timeless pieces.

6. Are there any advice you could give to young upstarts in the jewellery industry?

I’m still working on this myself, but don’t be afraid to share your work with people. They want to know what you’re up to! And it’s always great to get an outside perspective.

Images from kerrieyeung.com