Equilibrium | In Conversation With Emma Ware

 "We wear jewellery to be seen, to be heard, to be felt, as an extension of ourselves, letting the world know who we are."

- Emma Ware 

Borne out of a desire to celebrate the human spirit, Emma Ware's visual artistry and individualistic approach to the concept of jewellery undoubtedly set her apart from her peers. The accustomed idea that jewellery is to be merely worn for an aesthetic purpose is forever void, and instead, adorning jewellery is the ignition of your senses, how it feels as it curves and angles around the human form, and thus becoming an intimate playground for textures, geometry and patterns as they emphasise, highlight and trace your very being.

Emma's new collection Equilibrium is a seamless continuation of the visual recording of her previous collections' narratives. With an emphasis on linear materials such as dark leather straps and delicate silver wire, each piece play off with one another in the form of poetic dance and spirited energy. The straps and chains traces, and not restraint, the body's contours and its most intimate parts, empowering the essence of self and finding an equilibrium between the masculine and feminine. 

I interviewed Emma about her inspirations, her art-focused creations and the idea behind her new collection.

What inspired you to become a jewellery designer? 

It’s something I always wanted to do and it felt like the right time. I was working as a camera technician and years worth of long hours and no creative outlet took its toll. I moved into a warehouse in East London and burst into a new life of fun, freedom and creativity. I had studied Fine Art and grew up in a family of artists so that mindset was the norm for me. I see jewellery as an art form, it can be anything you want. It’s brought to life by the wearer who has a unique relationship with it. It’s expression, communication, and unlike seeing a piece of art hanging on a gallery wall you can appreciate it from a unique perspective.

Your jewellery is described as unconventional and art-focused. Tell me more about the concept/theme of your jewellery? 

I don’t start with the idea of making a necklace or ring, instead I play with a material, apply a process to it, see what happens then see how it responds to a human form. This way designs happen that I could never imagine initially. The more limiting a material seems, the more creative you have to be, really pushing its potential. The body is the star, I want my designs to celebrate, reflect, flatter and also empower the wearer.

The use of leather is central to your brand, what is it that draws you to a material seldom used by other jewellery designers? 

I realise I don't see much point in doing what has been done before. I started making jewellery from bicycle inner tubes. This was inspired by an ongoing search for ‘waste’ materials to re-purpose and realising that the rubber looked like leather but was lighter and softer and in plentiful supply. After feeling like I had done as much as I could with the rubber, leather being more rigid and colourful gave me new design options and took me on another route. I love that it’s biodegradable, can be made without chemicals and gets more beautiful as it is worn. These are big materials, I love bold structural pieces that have associations, maybe they look like organic forms or like some sort of strange artefact.

How does your surrounding influence your work? Is there a city, country or place you're also inspired by? 

I’m inspired by people creating, other peoples thought processes, determination and achievements are fascinating. And feeling like you’re in a hub of creativity, a part of something, is massively motivating. My studio is in London’s Hackney Wick in a converted warehouse with gallery and café and studios overlooking the Olympic stadium, we’re all working on our own things but aren’t alone, I’m very lucky! I find other cultures inspiring too, we wear jewellery and adorn ourselves but in different ways and for different reasons.

People spend most of their lives in a work space. How would you describe your studio? 

I’m in a room shared between three overlooking the river Lea in a warehouse with 35 creatives. We all know and support each other and have the backdrop of Hackney Wick which apparently is (or was) Europe’s most concentrated area of Artists. Everyone here is so sad that it’s all being demolished and turned into flats no-one can afford. It's a very special community, maybe because it’s temporary. The whole area opens it's doors to the public in the last weekend of July for Hackney Wicked, hopefully it be happening next year too.

Tell us about your new collection Equilibrium. How is it different from your previous collections? 

Each collection tends to be an exploration into a process or material. Equilibrium plays with lines that form structures. I love the idea of lines playing over the body and how it feels to be adorned in this way. There’s also an element of humour in an ear circled by silver. I don't take myself too seriously and I like to think my customers feel fun and excitement and freedom in wearing my pieces.

Describe the creative and technical stages of making your jewellery collection. What is the hardest and most enjoyable part of the process? 

Creating needs energy… once I get started its hard to stop adding to a collection, so I have to remind myself where I ended last time and get that momentum/flow back. I then add to that the new ideas that have popped up and choose a direction and a feel for the collection, And think about what has been popular and why, and then start playing with the material and see what happens. You have to enjoy it and be genuine otherwise I think it shows in the final pieces. It’s also tricky because it doesn't feel like work, just like having fun/wasting time! The technical part is difficult as the designs need to sit or hang right and fit a range of sizes, not break, and be comfortable. Some pieces are a challenge but those are often the best or most interesting ones.

Ideally I would be designing a lot more, it's the magical part of the process, but in reality I’m making and doing admin and marketing.

Do you have your favourite piece? Which design do you wear most often? 

I wear rings, earrings and hand pieces most. It used to be the Contra Mohican and Wing earrings but my favourites change as I go and at the moment I’m loving my Fulcrum and Almost rings and the Linear hand piece. I love wearing things a bit unconventionally, ie a single earring or thumb ring and it has to be a statement piece, so the bigger the better!

If you could adorn your work on a public figure (dead or alive) who would it be and why? 

Ooh Bjork is up there although I'd need to make something extra special for her. She’s an artist and pioneer in so many ways and it would be a collaboration. Also Frida Kahlo for the same reasons and for her strength and passion.

Is there a brand you would love to collaborate with? 

Yes although I can't pick one right now!

Describe the person wearing your collection.

 She’s a successful, independent creative. Passionate, aware and inquisitive. Enjoying life not afraid to be herself.

I love meeting my clients!

5 words to describe your jewellery. 

Conscious, elegant, unconventional, spirited, unique.

www.emmaware.co.uk

Maximum in Minimum | In Conversation with Magdalena Paszkiewicz

What has first drawn me to Magdalena Paszkiewicz's geometrical and minimal jewellery collection is her ability of maximising the unlimited potential of simple lines above and beyond and without repetitiveness or conformity, designs that are staunchly against the idea of 'normal'. She utilises her creative ability to explore innovative and quirky ways of adorning lines in an eye catching and awe inspiring manner despite its subtle and barely-there aesthetics. Magdalena uses traditional jewellery making techniques to create her modern designs, however her main rule of thumb when putting an idea into a physical form is stopping just short when the design becomes too much, and therein lies the uniqueness of her collection where the resulting outcome is the deliberately half-finished jewellery and separate components, ideal for modern women who embraces understated elegance and classic sophistication. With that, she is fast becoming one of my favourite contemporary designers in 2017.

Here I interviewed Magdalena about her inspirations as a designer, where her passion for minimalism comes from and the idea behind her newest collection.

 www.magdalenapaszkiewicz.pl

1. What inspired you to become a jewellery designer?

I graduated from The Academy of Fine Arts in Łódź in Poland. It was there at the Jewellery Department that I saw for the first time a jewellery machine and I fell in love with it instantly. I got curious about the technology and the process of production itself.

2. You are a great fan of minimalism and has implemented this into your body of work. What is it about minimalism that encourages you to adopt that particular style?

I consider minimalism to convey incredibly powerful messages. You don't attack the viewer with colour, form or structure. Neither is there to complete the picture with words. Minimum form, maksimum expression. The best motto of creators: less is more.

3. How does your surrounding influence your work? Is there a city, country or place you're inspired by?

The Academy of Fine Arts in Łódź had the biggest influence on my style. I specialise in wood engraving and I am especially keen on Japanese woodcut prints. It's one step away from Japanese style, design, minimalism and the work culture. At studies I practiced a lot of composition so my works are characterized by geometrical figures.

I live in Łódź. The city with huge industrial tradition dating back to the 19th century. Industrial and electric style attract many artists who feels at home and so am I. I'm certain Łódź influence my art too.

4. People spend most of their lives in a work space. How would you describe your studio?

My studio is an open place where I design and make jewellery, where everybody is welcome to enter and see me at work. Along with Pola Chrobot-a designer of Mokave Jewellery we have always wanted to create an open atelier ready for visitors any time. My intention is to introduce my job to everybody who still perceives jewellery in a stereotypical way. At my studio I run a jewellery workshop, pursue the individual orders and make my own collections.

5. Tell us about your new collection Double Earrings. How is it different from your previous collections?

Double Earrings are a continuation of my previous collection ,,Maksimum in Minimum" They are crafted from silver 925 and gold plated silver. The two elements the jewellery consists of enable us to wear it as separate earrings with or without the back part, exactly the way you see in pictures. This collection describes me the best as an artist and as a jewellery designer that's why I present the jewellery in the pictures.

6. Describe the creative and technical stages of making your jewellery collection. What is the hardest and most enjoyable part of the process?

As in all fields of art it's significant to read a lot on a given subject and attend exhibitions, to be acquainted with all pieces of art, generally. This is the main source of inspiration and it's the first moment when my ideas come to life. The next step is just hard work. A lot of drawing on paper and first sample versions in metal. Slowly the project is completed, jewellery ready and I may take care of another part of my job; photos, jewellery boxes, graphic design, the website and social media promotion. I devote equal time to all elements of my work.

The hardest moment of creativity is the process of searching for the concept. To make the collection simple, original and coherent. The most rewarding is the moment of pressing the enter key and releasing the final completed collection.

7. Do you have a favourite piece? which design do you wear most often?

I treat all my pieces very personally and emotionally. It's hard to choose only one but if I am to point something out it will be the Maximum Circle Necklace, the first design in my collection I created together with my friend Natalia, so I am  sentimental about it. It's a silver circle pendant attached to a transparent jewellery line, not to a regular chain. It makes an impression of soaring in the air.

The jewellery I wear most often are the silver earring from 5 colour collection. There are small and simple, perfect for casual wear. 

8. If you could adorn your work on a public figure (dead or alive) who  would it be and why?

There are many beautiful and stylish woman all over the world who could represent my collections but I still don't have any doubts as to who might be the icon of my style. It's Marion Cotillard a French actress whose both inner and outer beauty shines all the time.

9. Is there a brand you would love to collaborate with?

I'd like to collaborate with a classic clothing company where I could match my minimalistic jewellery collection with simple collection of clothes, both men's and women's. It's important to fit into the style of the  brand, keeping at the same time, your individuality.

10.Describe the person wearing your collection?

 I direct my jewellery towards all women who are aware of their own style. Women who adore classic, simple and minimalistic way of dressing up and who pay attention to details. My jewellery would underline the subtlety and class of the outfit.

11. 5 words to describe your jewellery? 

Minimalism, simplicity, purity, geometry, calmness.

Sharp Poetry | In Conversation with Vika Mayzel

Jewellery Designer Vika Mayzel desires to connect the dialogue of jewellery and art in one seamless continuity. Eager to utilise her creativity from a very early age, Vika designed a collection of utmost simplicity, focusing on sharp lines, angular geometric shapes and architectural inspirations, with an addition of subtle textures to accentuate the characteristics of the individual pieces. When adorned on the body the contrast is prominent against the female form; bold against the delicate, cool against the warmth, her pieces are deliberately subtle yet you couldn't help but be drawn to something that is so fearlessly daring and against the tide of the current norm, it forces us to rethink about our generalised perception of beauty. 

Here I am delighted to speak with Vika about her early beginnings as a jewellery designer, what influences her body of work and her exciting new collection.

  www.vikamayzel.com

What inspired you to become a jewellery designer? 

I was a creative child. From the age of 7 my parents decided that I should go to the private drawing school which was run by two designers. I spent there 10 years and I think this was the place where I received my first basic knowledge in design, art and drawing as well. The years I spent there were really great. For another 4 years I have been studying the college of art, and after graduation I decided for the first time that I really need a profession that is more practical, and be a painter of classic landscapes is not for me. Maybe it was some kind of disappointment in the level of high education or maybe it was a call of a young man who is looking for something more.

Today, after graduation from Shenkar College I absolutely sure that jewelry design was exactly the thing which I was looking for.
It gives me a lot of options how to develop myself, grow up and explore the materials by my own hands. Moreover, with all that I can use also all my previous experience in drawing. It is very open and that is what I love in this profession. 

Your jewelry is described as geometric. What is it about geometry that encourages you to adopt that particular style? 

You know, I see geometry in everything which surrounds me. Maybe that is the reason for adopting that style. All the time I am looking for beautiful contrasts in my jewelry pieces, often using patina trying to underline some details. Sometimes it can be a bold edge of some ring or a smooth transition from width to tiny wire in some earring. It is all about the details and geometry is the best way for it.

You devoted 10 years to fine and pictorial art, how do you link this to your jewellery design?

Oh I link it every day and every time. All my pieces start with a handmade sketch, often made in a quick and influenced style with black pen.

That is the first interpretation of new ideas and projects. The interesting fact is that in most cases (80%) the final jewelry piece is absolutely different from the sketch...

How does your surrounding influence your work? Is there a city, country or place you're also inspired by?

 Surrounding life influences me all the time. I find a lot of inspiration in nature and architectural details: urban sculptures, windows, vintage lamp posts or some lock connections on the doors. I live now in Prague and there are so many interesting details to find…

Nevertheless, sometimes inspiration may come from some intuitive feeling of the city and not from some specific detail. For example, from my last trip to London, I made many quick graphic sketches with the panorama of the city, where new city meets the Old town. Skyscrapers made of glass and concrete waves with silhouette of St. Paul’s Cathedral… The similar feeling from Tel Aviv but with some taste of Bauhaus and Mediterranean Sea. 

People spend most of their lives in a work space. How would you describe your studio?

 My studio is currently at my home. The important thing for me is a huge window! I really enjoy working with a lot of day light. Most of the time my studio is messy and full of different stuff, materials which I am trying to connect with pieces of silver. However, I think it is fine for working process and creativity.

 My jewelry bench is constantly full of silver dust and maybe it is some kind of magic, which happens there. 

 

Tell us about your new collection Perception. How is it different from your previous collections?

I would call it series. “Perception” is a name of my new series of various unique statement necklaces. Each piece is one of the kind work .In this series I am striving to create evocative wearable objects, made mostly from sterling silver, horsehair and leather. All these pieces are about the materials: about their weight, bulk and tactile feelings that they evoke from its wearer. I am trying to explore such phenomenon as contrast, color, rhythm and connection between them.

 

 As usually, my base are classical silversmith techniques such as casting, hand hammering, soldering and chasing. In addition to that, materials used in these objects such as horsehair or leather are closely related with personal memories from my family archive. One can say that all those are traditional, but not new. However, I find a lot of power in these materials and connecting them together, trying to create a new and unique piece of art.

It is different from my previous pieces also because of its size, volume which they have. All of the pieces consist of more than one material as well. These pieces are for making a statement. 

Describe the creative and technical stages of making your jewelry collection. What is the hardest and most enjoyable part of the process?

 Process of creating my collection is not constructive and mostly has no exact plan. This means that I am not able to predict how many pieces will be in collection. When I already have an idea for new collection, I am starting with inspiration board in my sketchbook, which consists of images and my fast drawings. After that, I am doing some sketches of jewels for the beginning, promptly going to the bench, and starting to work with metal. I feel that this moment is principal for me, to start work and try to catch the idea, which is still fresh in my head and on the paper and transform it to 3d shape.

The enjoyable part of the process is starting with new collection, inspiration and curiosity about it.

The hardest is finish it for specific deadline.

Do you have your favorite piece? Which design do you wear most often?

I really obsessed to the rings so I wear and switch them all the time. I love to put many rings on hand and make different combinations. That is also how I am checking out if the ring is comfortable for wearing and if I feel that there is some problem I do the changes before putting this piece for sale. 

If you could adorn your work on a public figure (dead or alive) who would it be and why?

Tilda Swinton. I love her style. Some people see in my jewelry some Scandinavian features and maybe that is what I find in Tilda’s look.

Is there a brand you would love to collaborate with?

I would love to collaborate with some glass blowing artist. My dream is to create jewelry collection of big necklaces using glass forms with unique and even strange forms…And some fashion designer as well. Or maybe both of them together- that sounds amazing!

5 words to describe your jewelry.

Impressive, geometric, contemporary, bold, unique.