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Rock It! Sophie Hughes Jewelry Oxidised Chop Hoops

Friday 27 June 2014

Raw, imperfect and unpolished, Sophie Hughes uncovers the hidden intriguing characteristics of raw material at its most natural form further manipulated for a deliberate, unrefined finish. These oxidised sterling silver hoops are created using timeworn hammers, anvils, hand tools and torches, which all sounds rather masculine but the final outcome results in a strong feminine touch.

Free from the gloss and superfluous, Sophie's designs cuts to the core of the generalised ideal of jewellery.

Embrace the imperfect.

Making Digital Noise: Jasmina Jovy Jewellery Interview

Wednesday 25 June 2014

A thoroughly innovative and charismatic jewellery designer, I was delighted to grab the opportunity to interview Jasmina Jovy after becoming absorbed by one of her collections entitled 'Digital Noise', a collection built on digital techniques such as printing, laser and computerised weaving whilst maintaining overlapping elements of graphics, fashion and art. 
   The collection clearly speaks volume, and not in a theoretical way. Using her degree in graphics and communications, the noise comes from the visual reverberation of the jewellery that sparks our senses. The noise is therefore created by repetitiveness and reproduction as it continues to hit the high notes on repeat. 
Taking a little time out from her busy schedule, Jasmina reflects on her humble beginnings, the conceptual process of her brand, outer influences and future aspirations.

1. What has inspired you to become a jewellery designer? At what moment did you decide this was your path?

My mother is a traditional jewellery goldsmith and during my whole childhood I wanted to be a goldsmith like her. But as a teenager I realized that I would like to work more with computer and new modern techniques. So I decided to study graphic design. After graduation I recognized that I have to combine these two fields. I still love to draw and work with my hands but I also like to work more conceptual. Now, I’m absolutely happy with my decision.

2. Your debut collection Digital Noise is certainly not for the faint hearted. However it is my  personal favourite, I marvel at the boldness of the designs. Tell me the story behind it?

Digital Noise represents my graduation work. My intention was to I work with the greatest possible coincidence. Thus I have  developed, with the help of a  programmer, a generative design tool. With this program I was able to deposit forms which grow in the chaos as fast as possible. In my trailer you get an impression of how the patterns have emerged. Digital techniques found in generative design, direct printing on metal and computerized weaving looms shape and characterize the appearance of this fashion-oriented concept jewellery. Clear and graphic shapes derived from traditional jewellery forms are integrated into a new design concept through laser-trimming, printing, cutting, casting resins as well as synthetic weavings.

3. The Chain on Chain is comparably more subtle and elegant. What is the concept behind the collection?

The artistic focus of “the chain on the chain” collection consists of prints on electroplated metals (Gold, Ruthenium, Rhodium) which provoke optical illusions. The current strictly limited collection stands for a high standard of quality and for a diverse range of materials, as well as the integration of graphical elements. The collection is made up of ten different pieces which are offered in limited editions of thirty for each design.

4. Provide a little insight in your creative and technical process.

I work with coincidences and unpredictable movements. You could say I´m working in many steps. In my work digital noise I used generated computer programs. I wanted to create new aesthetics, in a way that  I never could imagine in my mind. Sometimes I know exactly what I want, but then at the end it is never the way I wanted it to be.

5. Is there a piece of your collection that is your particular favourite? What do you wear all the time?

I really love „the rectangle“ from digital noise. The basic form of the compound above the other chain form a rectangle. Plotting the gem drop the individual chains down and thus a new form emerges.

In everyday life, I wear different creations from the chain on the chain collection.

6. Describe the person wearing your collection.

Classic self-confident women who know what they want. Straight lines and graphic shapes loving without too much fuss. Also my clients love quality and meaningful jewelry.

8. Is there a jewellery designer or influential public figure you look up to the most? Do they provide inspirations in your designs?

I really like the work of uncommon matters (Amelie Rich), Sonja Bischur, Maryam Keyhani and Fove. I don´t know if they are inspiring me, but what we have in common is the graphical and pure aesthetic in our designs.

9. Describe your jewellery in 5 words.

Graphical. Statement. Contemporary. Patterns & Prints. Quality.

10. What is the next step for you?

In August I will open my own studio with graphic office and a small showroom. I will work together with two interns on a new fashion collection and I want to grow up with my own web shop. Also, I will develop my scarf collection and exhibit at various trade fairs in Europe.

Infinite Perspective: Emma Ware

Thursday 5 June 2014

 I was profoundly struck by the whimsically gothic and bird-like elements of Emma Ware's Infinity collection that transforms jewellery into a whole new level of wearable aesthetics, where art, beauty and taste form a unique combination and evokes an irresistible collection that has a dark fantasy and preying connotations.

Described as an eco artist with a design conscious mindset, Emma handmade pieces are fundamentally sustainable and ethical, however this is not conspicuous which is a tribute to Emma's artistic visionary and imaginative narration. Using jewellery as a communicative tool, the subjects of elitism, society, reality and freedom comes to mind. 

 Using malleable dark rubber and minimal metal, the collection enables adaptive movements and rhythmic flow. Her sculpture-like jewellery frames and traces the contours of the female form, reflecting the graceful curves and angles that is in tune with the human body and ultimately brought to life.

The piece that stood out for me the most is the Rhythm necklace. The rippling tide of dark twisting rubber that entwines menacingly around the neck and the graceful singular chain that falls a half looping curve onto the chest area symbolises a striking contrasts of prey and vulnerability, representing the fundamental importance of using the body to assist in narrating the story of the necklace. 

 The infinity collection is a lot of things, but most importantly, it lets the imagination to run wild.


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