My Top 10: Jewellery Designers at IJL 2013

 Another year has come and gone for this illustrious event in the jewellery calendar year. Approximately 600 exhibitors, tens of thousands of products displayed and copious amount of champagnes consumed to bid a final farewell to Earls Court and a big hello to the iconic Olympia, who will host the annual 4 day event next year.

My experience at IJL2013 has certainly been a positive one after attending the last day of the event on Wednesday. With 600 well known brands, new designers, established retailers, suppliers and diamond companies participating in the exhibition it is hard not to feel rather overwhelmed by the sheer numbers! Different sectors cater to different visitors and I've tried my best to cover every acre of stands in sight.

I was excited by the opportunity to finally put a name to a face, or the Renaissance Rebel II pompadour bangle to a face. But then I've come across designers that I've never acknowledged previously, that's the wonderful thing about events such as this; the discovery of new talents.

If I haven't said it enough already, with close to 600 jewellery brands it is quite difficult to select just a few favourites as each and every one of them are unique in their own way, so in this exciting collaboration with fine jewellery blogger Katerina Perez we composed our personal list of the top 10 jewellery designers in IJL2013. Here is my list of 10 up and coming designers and ones to watch.


10. Leanne Evans

Simplicity in geometric forms holds the key in Leanne's bold and distinctive collection of sterling silver jewellery pieces. She showcased her maiden collection 'Squares' as well as launching her new 2013/14 collection 'Edges' at IJL. Leanne is intrigued by individuals' personalities and mindsets and create pieces to tailor to their DNA. The Volcanic ring is a bold statement with a hint of subtleness for everyday wear and for those special occasions. She is part of Vanilla ink, an award winning scheme that supports and mentors new batch of talented jewellery designers.

Website www.leannetevansjewellery.com
Images from facebook.com/LeanneTEvansJewellery


9. Scarlett Erskine

 What first drawn me to Vanilla Ink's Scarlett's collection is the fluid and textured surfaces of her pieces. Inspired by the skin and its intricate natural imprints and hidden beauty, she formed the connection of skin to skin contact; wearing the piece is what makes us identifiable as human. Her use of gemstones and its unusual style of settings adds a touch of modern glamour to an already elegant piece. Seen above wearing her gorgeous sky blue topaz solitaire ring, it is given a contemporary twist to a classic and traditional style, the band is highly textured and bold to create an edgier alternative to an engagement ring. It also helps with sky blue being my favourite colour.

Website: www.scarletterskine.com
Images from facebook.com/scarlettejewellery and me


8. Sara Gunn

The stand out piece from Sara's collection is her 'Souvenir' ring with unique etchings on the surface. On closer inspection appears a variety of photographic images of urban landscapes of city streets, landmarks and buildings, perhaps intentionally unidentifiable to form the wearer's own story. Despite its appearance it is comfortably light and wearable. The ring is bespoke and can be made into any colour, shape and size with your own individual etchings upon request, making the ring entirely your own and that no individual has an identical ring.  


Website: www.saragunn.com
Images from saragunn.com and me



7. Kattri

This wonderful Geometric collection has it all: futuristic, decadent and aesthetically pleasing, intended to wow with its clean, minimalist structure yet counteracted by larger than usual size, reminiscing the 1920s glamour where bold and beautiful bejewelled adornments were embraced. Already making waves in the jewellery and fashion industry after launching the brand in 2012, expect to see this become the most sought after collection.

Website: www.kattri.com
Images from Kattri.com and Instagram


6. Joanne Macfayden

I feel like I'm in a fairytale wonderland deep in a forest surrounded by fairies and elves in old folklore wearing this. This ring from the Eden collection is wonderfully whimsical and helpfully assisted with self-inflicted overactive imagination. You cannot help but stare in awe at the intricate detailing of the pieces and be transported into a fantastical never ending story. Joanne's love for experimental-making techniques and pushing the boundaries is clearly reflected in her work. To be worn but it wouldn't look out of place in an art gallery.

Website: www.joannemacfadyen.com  
Images facebook.com/JoanneMacFadyen.Jewellery and me

5. Myia Bonner

A playful take on the diamond facets and cutting process, Myia simplified its shape to create a truly wearable geometric piece for everyday occasion. Her 'Classic' and 'Brilliant' collections have extra mathematical precision that makes the jewellery more of a architectural and sculptural piece of wearable art.

Website: www.myiabonner.co.uk
Images from myiabonner.co.uk


4. Bug

How playful and fun are these? Bug founder Ellie Ingram created wearable miniatures from everyday objects. Everyone has a memory or an object that defines them; mine being the 'Drink Me' ring as I love drinking tea, or the keyboard necklace as a reminder of my childhood hobby. Her collections bring a sense of nostalgia once subconsciously selected from her vast collection and worn. It tells a unique story of a person's past, experience, future and their favourite things in life. Her range has something for everyone and also customisable to tailor to your needs. Check out her current collections 'Chained', 'La Declotheque' and 'La La Land', they're wonderfully whimsical with a unique story to tell.

Website: www.buggedup.com
Images: www.buggedup.pom

3. Clarice Price Thomas

 We take inspirations from different outlets, whether it's from your surroundings, your loved ones, exotic travels or personal experiences, these inspirations allow the jewellery to go beyond from just a piece of jewellery to a unique personal story. Clarice takes inspiration from her watch and clock maker father to create feminine and elegant pieces from otherwise masculine internal machinery. Her Time collection has a sense of subtle movements with added glamour and luxury with a selection of gemstone choices. Also shown here is a sneak peek of her newest collection 'Metropolis' and I am in love with her winged out studs. She is certainly one to watch. 


Website: www.claricepricethomas.com
Images www.claricepricethomas.com and me


2. Anna Byers

I have to say, I am obsessed with her Wide Perspex cuffs from the HEX collection. Their simple structure and geometry patterns creates a luxurious yet playful statement. Inspired from her trip in Jerusalem and the geometric shapes on the buildings and places of worship, Anna is in tune with the geometric trend that is here to stay. Also check out her new 'Interactive' geometric collection, the ability to rotate and re-arrange into endless combinations is a clever concept of creating your own individual piece.

Website: www.annabyers.com
Images www.annabyer.com and me  


1. Rosie Sanders

Now Rosie's Renaissance Rebel I and II collection has an intriguing narrative behind it. Inspired by Madame De Pompadour, she was King Louis XV's most powerful French courtesan in the 1700 who came a long way from being an illegitimate daughter of a fishmonger's wife to a high standing position in society and politics, it is an inspiration indeed! Rosie's neo-classical collection has a luxurious contemporary edge that encourages us to embrace our inner femininity whilst flaunting our powers and ambitions. That concept alone is enough reason to wear the collection.

Website: www.rosie-sanders.com
Images www.rosie-sanders.com and me  

On Reflection: Past, Present & Future

 Prior to my discovery of Bande Des Quatres, a boutique jewellery line based in picturesque Montreal, I thought I've seen enough to be inspired by the geometric concept in jewellery design. However with Bande Des Quatres' cutting edge methods and utterly original collections I doubt the journey will ever end. I realise there are an abundance of talented and original independent jewellery designers from across the globe that are just waiting for the opportune moment to be discovered here whether it is by the media, journalists, jewellery lovers and most importantly, the general public, such as myself.

 Therefore I introduce the lovely Erin Wahed, founder and designer of this unique and collaborative collections, which is already causing a stir in the US and Canada. I'd like to delve deeper into her defining memories, the person she is today and how it inspired her collections.

Childhood

Coming home from school everyday, running down to the basement where my mother's studio was and sitting there watching her work. My mother is my collaborator on Bande des Quatres. We design together and she makes all the pieces in our studio in Montreal whereas I manage everything else.

Expectations

I never thought I would get into jewelry. I always loved what my mother did, but never had the patience to sit down at the jewelry bench and create myself. I dabbled a few times trying to learn from her, but I always got frustrated. I had the ideas, but the execution was where I struggled. With my father being a businessman and my mother a jeweler, I was always intrigued by both worlds, but I knew that I never would choose either exclusively, rather I'd find something that included both equally. 

Life before

I was always interested in technology and art as a child, but was also really good at math. I taught myself Adobe Photoshop at 14 years old and I would create these digital collages using images I found on the internet. I picked up a digital camera and began trying to capture the world in the same look and feel as the digital collages I created. From there I found myself attending New York University Tisch School of the Arts in their Photography program.  Macro photography became my style, abstracting the everyday, trying to get closer and closer to the collages I used to create.  Ultimately, when it came time for me to develop my thesis in my 4th year, I had the epiphany that I could finally get back to the digital collages, but this time using my own images. All this to say, I have always had an obsession with geometrics, it is how I see the world. 

How it began

 My visual landscapes, as I called them, were large scale and I was given the lobby of the NYU building to exhibit them at the opening.  I had just seen the Michael Jackson movie "This Is It" and became obsessed with his gold sequin Balmain pants. I needed to have a stand out outfit for the event. I had similar sequin pants made and needed jewelry to go with the outfit that would make just as much of a statement as the pants. My mother and I were on a family vacation and sketched the the Van der Rohe and Moholy-Nagy ring for that very purpose.

 Motivation

The Van der Rohe ring really pushed me to develop the brand and debut the collection of Bande des Quatres. Working with my mother has truly been a gift. I’ve never had a knack for drawing. It’s always ideas for me, so she can read my mind in the sense that I’ll point to something and she’ll know exactly what I’m thinking and how to translate it.  That really works extremely well. It wouldn’t work like that with just anyone. I think you have to have that family bond to be able to do that.

Geometrics

I truly believe my obsession with geometrics is part of my DNA and the way in which I see the world.  Shapes and lines give me this sense of comfort.  When taking photographs I was very focused on composition and color - how shapes, lines and colors spoke to one another. I knew I got the correct composition when it would just "feel right". The same applies when designing pieces for Bande des Quatres - for me it is all about how the shapes and lines speak to one another and sit on the body.

 3 words 

Yes (I have trouble saying no)

Ultimately

Word

The wearer

Women and men of all ages, lovers of art, architecture, design and avant-garde fashion.

 Future

I have big plans to turn Bande des Quatres into a creative agency that connects creative people.  

Thoughts during making process

Is it wearable?

Is it marketable?

Will it catch people's attention?

Does it pay homage to the inspiration?

Randoms

I hated wearing jewelry up until I started Bande des Quatres. I found it very uncomfortable.

I'm a workout fanatic.

Bande des Quatres is my second full time job.

My favorite color is black.

I love kale and avocados.

Hobbies

I love discovering new music and because of that started a Bande des Quatres mix series called BDQ Precious Metals Mix Series. It is a monthly mix series that we release inspired by individual pieces from our jewelry collections. The idea is that every month we select a different musician to create a 45 minute mix. The artist picks a BDQ piece to be inspired by and creates a mix around it. The latest ones are by Atu inspired by our Ando ring and Cosmonaut Grechko and is inspired by our Jessica Earrings.  You can listen here: www.soundcloud.com/bandedesquatres

Struggles

Juggling a full time job and developing Bande des Quatres. 

Truimphs

Juggling a full time job and developing Bande des Quatres.  I am very proud of what I have been able to develop in only 3 years.

Personal style

Comfortable, black, drapey, leather, color accents.

I always design based on what I would personally wear. I mostly wear black clothes that outline my body in an architectural fashion so my body remains hidden and acts as a blank canvas.  This way the jewelry that adorns my ears, wrists and hands are what shines.

 Favourites

I love wearing them all but I have some favorites which I alternate on a daily basis: 

Van der Rohe ring

Artie ring

Aaron ring

Harold knuckle ring

James knuckle ring

Anna knuckle ring

Silvio knuckle ring

Carel ring

Eames bracelet

Eisenman bracelet

Kite bracelet

Inspirational quotes

"By far for me, the most important things' inspiration. As an artist, if you ain't inspired to work, then you start thinking; once you start thinking, you start forcing [art]. It's never good"  -Jay-Z
 
"If a picture is worth a thousand words, then photographers are worth a million" -Tupac Shakur
 
the meaning of a word - to me - is not as exact as the meaning of a color. Color and shapes make a more definite statement than words. -Georgia O'Keeffe, 1976
 
From experiences of one kind or another, shapes and color come to me very clearly - Sometimes I start in very realistic fashion and as I go on from one painting after another of the same thing it becomes simplified till it can be nothing but abstract - but for me it is my reason for painting it I suppose.

-Georgia O'Keeffe, 1957

"Stare it is the way to educate your eye. Stare Listen Pry eavesdrop. Die Knowing Something You are not here long."
-Walker Evans

Visit her website bandedesquatres.com

All Images by www.hugoarturi.com

Erin's photography project erinwahed.com

Rock it! All in One: Lestie Lee's Fancy Diamond Charms Cuff

9. I've been a staunch admirer of Lestie's jewellery venture for a good few years, from when she was working for Patricia Nicolas to designing her first jewellery collection. I recall the moment when I first spotted her jewellery collection in a magazine and excitedly yelled 'I know her! We used to be in Central Saint Martins foundation year together!' and sounding rather proud by the association. From then on I have been keeping a keen eye on her progress and her wonderful diamond cut themed collection.

...At the risk of sounding like a starstruck fan let's move on shall we.

Her unique interpretation of a diamond faceted cuff in an assortment of shapes and sizes is a delightful play on modern geometry with classic sophistication. Her cosmopolitan upbringing and extensive travels are platforms for her inspiration to create luxury and decorative wearable art. As Treasure's designer of the year in 2012 I am anticipating her next move.

Made in rose gold plated and also available in sterling silver.

Website:www.lestielee.com
Image: professionaljeweller
Cuff by: Lestie Lee