Rockin' That Gem: Mariko Sumioka

Wednesday, 16 October 2013

The stunning grandeur of the Grade I listed Goldsmiths Hall was home for a fortnight to the equally prestigious showstopping jewellery event, now in its 31st year. Described as an anti-thesis of mass production; this exhibition is a chance to be awed by innovative and exciting independent designer makers from 115 jewellers and 65 silversmiths (consisting of established jewellers, emerging talents and newly graduates). This event is an excellent opportunity to purchase directly from the designers, view their collections and talk about their techniques and inspirations, making the buying process all the more personal and enlightening.

Here I have composed my favourite independent designers exhibited this year. The list is sourced from my visit during the second week, consulting the Goldsmiths exhibitor list and finally the designers' website. Enjoy the feeling of awe, wonder and amazement.

Maud Traon

A truly fantastical and imaginative fairytale-esque encounter that beholds Maud Traon's wondrous ring collection. Where jewellery and art unite in an explosive mix of colours and medium, these miniature sculptures must be seen to believe. Though clearly sculpted in Troan's creatively planned vision, the collection nostalgically provides a sense of childhood experimentation with toys, art and craft, mixing it all together to form a delightfully mishmash magical artwork that only a child knows how. The collection also plays upon our psyche and internal befuddlement; our mind is a confusing network of activity. With inspirations coming from world issues, natural disasters, consumerism and post-apocalyptic landscapes, her work is not only visually pleasing but highlights current world issues.

Impractical at its best, but then again, who wants practicality? Wearable art is all about breaking trends with divided originality, Traon's has certainly achieved that. With added glitter.

Website: www.maudtraon.com

The constant gardener

Oh toi mon Petit Poney

Precious metal

Oh toi mon Petit Poney

Disa Allsopp

What has first drawn me to Disa Allsopp's statement jewellery is her unique finishing of the collection. It's organic and natural aesthetics moves away from clean, minimalist and defined lines favoured by most, however this method is a personal characteristic in Allsopp's work and has a consistent theme, making her work her identity.

Her collection is inspired by the ancient jewellery of Etruscans, Egyptians and Greek and Roman civilisations. Despite these historical references her work has a contemporary and timeless feel, thoroughly enhanced by the vibrancy of the gemstones. A new discovery, I will definitely be following her progress.

Website: www.disaallsopp.com

Green tourmaline ring

Oval citrine ring

Rectangular citrine ring

Mariko Sumioka

Bamboo brooch

I finally get the chance to meet Mariko after writing a group feature on geometric jewellery perspective here (which happens to be the most read post since I've started my blogging venture) Her current collection is even more inspiring than the last, nostalgically maintaining her theme of Japanese culture and tradition. Along with architecture and environment that forms a part of her collection, there is a silent yet significant concept that completes the formula; respect.

Respect is an etiquette that is an essential part of Japanese culture and taken very seriously. Mariko's collection evokes that expression with its orderly neatness and attention to detail, reflecting honourable reality.

Website: www.marikosumioka.com

Pray for Japan brooch

Rokusyo no yane earrings

Hee Young Kim

Hee Young Kim's 'A Constructed way' collection reminds me of luxurious and minimalist living arrangements of a city penthouse floor plan. She explores inner hidden spaces and intriguing secrecy that innately applies to all human beings. She went further by constructing multi-layering of different shapes and sizes to refer to the complexity of the human psyche.

Clean, defined and geometric, Hee Young Kim went for a controlled and organised appearance. Wearing her piece will definitely spark intrigue for the wearer, arousing curiosity of the sense of space.

Website: www.heeyoungkimjewellery.com

Kristjan Eyjolfsson

A visually stunning spectacular is how I would describe Eyjolfsson beautifully bespoke collection. An excellent alternative to a traditional engagement ring that will most certainly draw utmost attention to the wearer, the exquisite detail and its mysterious regal drama will see to that. Endless inspiration comes from his Icelandic background where its natural beauty and scenic environment forms a vital element in his collection. In terms of architecture, which is an additional source of influence, he uses the eras of Gothic, Renaissance and Art Nouveau to complete his design.

In 2012, the Queen wore his specially-commissioned Chelsea Iris brooch during the Chelsea Flower Show on the Diamond Jubilee celebratory tour.

Website: www.kristjaneyjolfsson.com

Cathedral Trefoil ring

Embrace

Gullfoss ring

Regal ring

De Anna Kiernan

Curve necklace

From just looking at her work you could immediately sense she has an architectural background. The distinction between architecture and jewellery is no longer blurred; in fact, architecture is a vital discipline in jewellery design due to the favoured resurgence of geometric shapes and clean lines. In her Curve collection, Kiernan uses the female form to create jewellery with soft sweeping motions to elegantly frame the gentle curves of the body.

The Curve necklace as seen above works with the contours of the neck, it appears ever so natural, as if it belongs to the body. What's great about her design is that it goes with everything and can be worn frequently or for those special occasions. I would personally buy outfits to work around the necklace.

Website: deannakiernan.co.uk

Shard earrings

Ornella Iannuzzi

L'Exceptionnelle Emeraude cuff

I've been a huge admirer of Iannuzzi's one-of-a-kind jewellery for a while now. Befittingly described as an 'artist jeweller', she uses the beauty of nature and its ever-changing climatic landscape to create immortalised sculptural art, highlighting its beauty in a most revolutionary way. My favourite pieces are two rings from the Les Exceptionnelle collection as seen below. I find it fascinating how she uses a gemstone's texture and composition that is nonetheless blended in into the metal, replicating its structure and formation. It is almost like nature is adapting to its surrounding environment, or blend in to avoid detection.

Note the way the precious gemstones are set in all her jewellery pieces, unusual settings are her forte.

Website: ornella-iannuzzi.com

Les Exceptionnelle Emeraude ring

Les Exceptionnelle Sur la Côte d'Azur ring

Coralline Reef ring

Milly Swire

Audrey ring

Milly Swire's jewellery evokes lyrical poetry and intriguing drama when it comes to the influences of her collection. She is inspired by the harmonious movement within nature such as the waves in the sea and imprints left on a sandy beach. Like Swire's jewellery, these naturally occurring imprints are never the same, making each and every one of them unique.

The Audrey ring has a precious stone with such stunning depth that I can't help but stare and absorb into memory, with the metal matching the rough yet fluid texture of the stone. However the dark sapphire ring is my absolute favourite. The blue reminds me of the sea deep into the night, where sometimes blue can be mistaken for the depth of darkness. The undulating roughness of the precious gemstone creates waves that mother nature can only enforce. It's like a dream/nightmare right on your fingertip.

Website: www.millyswire.com

Augusta bracelet

Lily ring

Rough sapphire ring

Angela Cork

Oxidised sterling silver frame vase

I can't help but fall in love with Angela's vases of minimalist functionality. I like the idea of the unconventional and varying ways of controlling the positioning of the flowers.

Vases? That's almost...offensive. More like a piece of contemporary art that demands attention, not a background decoration.

Website: www.angelacork.co.uk

Gold plated sterling silver oval vase

Sterling silver outline vase

Leaning wedge vase

Gold plated sterling silver rectangle vase

Sterling silver slim vase

Oval waterline vase

Tuesday, 13 August 2013

1. Gonzalo Palma

Geometry, formulation and coordination are words not commonly associated with jewellery. The moment we utter the term 'bling' we gear our subconscious thoughts towards a heavy set chain and cluster of diamonds. But with geometry? We presumably associate the term with academic curriculum of math and science. However, the geometric trend within the jewellery industry and indeed fashion has never been so influential and powerful with jewellery designers continually experimenting and forever questioning the mathematical attributes in jewellery. The combination of math, art and jewellery is a delightful concoction that will continue to inspire, delight and most importantly, break down barriers and create new ideology.

One designer that touches upon geometry is Peruvian jewellery designer Gonzalo Palma whose inspiration comes from architectural and furniture design of the 1930s and 1950s. His sharpe, sleek and minimalist jewellery cleverly plays tricks with optical illusions that is achieved with careful consideration of shape, weight, texture, shadow and light. He took particular consideration of the wearer and the importance of creating a narrative behind his work:

"These pieces are designed technically and customer must feel that there is a mind behind the reason and that translates all this into a gem."

His work subtly implies mystery and timelessness with daring elegance. Although his pieces are ideally worn, it would certainly not look out of place on a plinth in a contemporary art gallery. His designs are to be admired but thankfully without the 'do not touch' sign.

2. Gonzalo Palma

3. Sarah Loertscher

4. Sarah Loertscher

Washington based jewellery designer/artist Sarah Loertscher's inspiration and structural technique comes from her childhood exposure to vast expansive skies and industrial environment. Her appreciation for clean, minimal and organic forms are clearly reflected upon her designs. Although her geometric shapes seem purposely chaotic and free, it is carefully constructed with every lines and angles intricately analysed and configured:

"My work is an exploration of these structural forms - building up a single line or shape into a dense mass, or distilling forms into their skeletal supports. All of my work revolves around crystalline growth: I am fascinated with the way that something made purely of hard edges and angles can grow as organically as a flower. I mimic crystalline formations in my jewelry, constructing simple wire forms into hard-edged, slightly chaotic structures."


5. Seth Papac

University of Washington jewelry and Metalsmithing alumini Seth Papac exquisite jewellery and sculptural design has been exhibited all over Europe as well as the United States. His work has a deeply personal biographical theme; he uses the material, process, colour and form to reflect upon his experience with fellow human beings and his surrounding environment. Like most jewellery designers/artists, he uses the human form as a template for his art:

"My interest in jewelry as a medium of art is its site – the body. Much like the function of architecture to house, display and protect paintings and sculpture, the body acts as literal, metaphorical and conceptual structure for jewelry. Placed on this site jewelry acts as a personal signifier of taste, attitude, belief and history."

6. Emma Macleod Jewellery

Scottish contemporary jewellery designer Emma Macleod's jewellery collection instantly reminded me of the complexity of oil rigs where she finds her niche and inspiration. She uses the immense structure to completely strip it down to achieve a much cleaner and finer lines in her jewellery range. I also like how it could possibly depict a simplified version of a faceted diamond. The use of oil rigs shows that our mundane surroundings can be a source for inspiration and to be appreciative of various forms of nature as well as man-made structures:

"I would describe my work as contemporary small scale structures for the body. I source my inspiration from strong architectural structures and landmarks. My degree show collection "Dundee Rigged" was inspired by the locally docked rigs’ legs. I was able to get some great pictures of the rig legs and work from them and visit the docks frequently for reference."

7. Emma Macleod Jewellery

8. Ute Decker

9. Ute Decker

German-born jewellery/artist Ute Decker's stunning spatial collection is an exploration of space, beauty and ethics with her preferred material of recycled silver, bio-resin and fair-trade gold. Her journalistic and economical background came into fruition as it influences her ideology and context relating to society and our surrounding environment. Her underlying dismissal of conspicuous beauty and perfection is applied with her deliberate application of visible marks when forming, soldering and bending the pieces to depict our human characteristic flaws and exterior imperfections. Additionally it highlights the media obsession with the perfect human form and the lack of focus on human achievements, intelligence and personality.

"It is important to me that the beauty of my pieces is not only on the outside but is an integral part; from the mindful choice of the materials’ provenance through to the careful hand-crafting of each individual piece.

Beauty as a material version of ‘goodness’ can remind us about the qualities to which it alludes, such as love, trust, intelligence, creativity, kindness, justice and courage. By having such works around us, we can be subtly reminded of the constituents of virtue."

10. Mariko Sumioka

Cockpits Art resident jewellery designer Mariko Sumioka work is inspired by Japanese architecture, old traditions and the spirit of Zen. She explores the concept and narrative of jewellery and encourage individuals to find their own connection and story whilst wearing her jewellery piece. The perfect structure of a japanese-inspired housing layout adorning the hand is an instrumental symbol of possession, personal comforts and cleanliness.

"I am inspired by Japanese unique architectural characteristics:
natural materials and colours, dark and bright contrasts, linear forms, geometric shapes and spaces. Since human beings live in architecture, there are some reasons in each element. I have researched theoretically and visually into those handed down traditions and tried to bring them into my pieces of jewellery.
My work explores a connection with human bodies and how the wearer and viewer interact with each other, themselves and the objects. Also, studying the principle of Zen and the essence of the Japanese love of nature helps me to understand peoples attitude behind their culture."

11. Hanna Sandin

Hanna Sandin's beginnings as a sculpture gradually evolved into wearable jewellery pieces that concentrate on elemental lines and simplified shapes. She trades under the name Samma which means 'same' in her country of origin Sweden. The name derives from the repetitive nature of geometry and her obsession with organic forms:

"I'm fascinated by perfect shapes, like a triangle, that can be idiosyncratic and almost weird-looking when repeated."

Hanna's work has various means of symbolism; it could possibly question individuals excessive needs of opulent lifestyle and accessible luxury in their lives; creating a false sense of identity and temporary happiness. By delving into our humble beginnings, simplier and finer objects can be a source of personal gain and not a source of what we are missing.

12. Hanna Sandin

13. Ariane Ernst Jewellery

German jewellery designer Ariane Ernst inspiration comes from current fashion trends and art movements of minimalism and deconstructivism. She uses flashes of colours and boldness whilst maintaining her focus in proportions and fine organic lines. Her work has a sense of purpose; to demystify jewellery from only being viewed as a piece of accessory; but a form of expression of the individual's character and personality.

"Each piece is based upon a broad conventional style. In particular she puts her focus on proportionalities and the joint lines of each single link. In this process classical forms of jewelry collide with the latest trends of fashion – colours, stylishness and her classical education influences her jewelry design."

Her promotional images of the collection depicts strength, spontaneity and adventure; it could possibly describe the wearer than the jewellery itself, or a combination of both.

The collison of geometry, art and jewellery are an addictive mix and never to be concluded. We hope.